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Peter wright anvil worth free#
Feel free to show off your latest creations or get advice on a problem, or anything else related to blacksmithing! Previous winners of our monthly contest! A subreddit devoted to all things blacksmith. if you don't feel ashamed of your offer, that means you have offered too much. Next time, if you really want to learn to negotiate a price, remember this. Price paid is soon forgotten, the quality of the tool is what stays with you. Negotiating skills particularly for items like an anvil that are a cross between a museum piece, a tool and an emotional decorative item, are probably worthless unless you decide to become a collector and acquire the hard nose to go past anvils that are overpriced to score the one that will make you a profit.Īs a one off buyer, how do you reconcile the conflict between "I want that anvil" and "I want to pay much less so I don't feel bad about spending" ?Ī hard balancing act. I say it is worth what you paid, not more, not less. Almost every post of an anvil purchase comes associated with doubts about the price paid. Nice size for small to medium stuff, good size to justify the purchase of 2 more anvils, one in the vicinity of 200 lb and another 300 lbĪnvil purchase seems to bring up a lot of buyers remorse. To me it was the right thing to do, but if you choose to "improve" your anvil just remember that you can quickly take steel off and reduce the life of your anvil, but putting it back on (correctly) is a big and expensive task. The face has some pitting in it, but I left that alone and I assume I'll eventually work the pits out of it. When I did clean up the edges I used a flap disk on a 4.5 inch angle grinder and took off the minimum amount of steel I could to create some smooth edges and lower the risk of future chipping. As I said though, I used it for a few months before doing anything other than using a wire wheel to clean it up. I used mine for a few months and then decided to clean up the edges a little for 2 reasons: 1) There was some chipping and I wanted to decrease the chances of additional damage, and 2) I didn't have any good areas where the edge radius was consistent for more than an inch or so. As others have said it's suitable to use as is. I have a 128 PW that was in similar condition when I got it. Don't sweat the price as you can likely get your money back easily should you choose to sell your anvil. Heck forging on the face will do the same thing!Īll the best, congratulations on your purchase. Meanwhile a sanding block on that face will bring out the smooth steel. If you need a sharp edge for forging, you could possibly make a hardy tool (2 inch or so) square that could be used for sharp edge forging. If I had it to do over again I would NOT have repaired the anvil. Truthfully I reduced the collector value of the anvil by repairing it. I now use that anvil for leather work, riveting and bench top work only.
I hardface welded the edges and repaired them thinking it absolutely HAD to be done. My first real anvil is a 84lb hay budden with edges somewhat worse than yours. I would suggest you do not repair, grind or weld on that anvil. Portability, collector value, decoration? Heck I don't know. The smaller anvils tend to fetch more money per pound and I'm not really sure why. Over payment is completely relative! I have seen smaller anvils (50-90LB) sell for upwards of 4-7 bucks per pound. It is stamped on both the left and right side of the front foot. I have a 135 PW with an 7 stamp on the foot. It is thought some of these were inspection marks and steel batch marks. According to Postman's AIA (Anvils in America) Peter wright put all kinds of different numbers and stamps on the foot of anvils.
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